Mango Jam, Jalea de Mango

Just a small sample of all the mango varieties.

It's mango season. The mango tree in my back yard has dropped its last pink mango of the year, but the one across the street is just beginning to ripen. Here in Miami the mangos come in all shape and sizes.  There is even a mango festival during the month of July.  According to the festival's page, there are over 220 varieties of mangos grown here in South Florida.

Growing up in the tropics, mangos were abundant.  One of my first words, as a toddler was mango. I could recognize a mango tree from any other tree. Around my neighborhood, almost every house had at least one mango tree, but it wasn't until recently that I learned there were an infinite variety of mangos.  I do remember however, that some trees were huge with the most common mango, medium sized fruit, green with yellow cheeks, and lots of fiber. Then some other folks had a smaller, rounder kind of mango, no fibers, de bocado (morsel, melted in your mouth) my mom's favorite.  Finally there was the manga (not the Japanese comics) but the largest mango variety.  A manga is about double or triple the size of a regular mango, with pink checks hanging from a little tree, which makes the fruit look even bigger.

Trave in time, school picture
with two mango trees in the background.

School play, photo opportunity
under two large mango trees.

During mango season, you really have to hustle.  Mango yields are generous, and  pretty soon your yard will be covered in fermenting fruit, unless you pack them in bags and give them away to friends and strangers alike.  A good way to use a whole lot of mangos is by juicing them or making jam and jalea (the thicker version of jam).  You can turn them into jam, and save them for when the season is over.  I can freeze them for the colder months when you need more vitamin C.  You could sell them, one mango goes for $1 in northern states! 

The difference between jam and a jalea is evaporation, which means longer cooking time. Mango jam is soft spoonable and jalea is shaped like a brick and can be sliced.  Both are delicious.

I love, love mango!

Mango Jam, not difficult just time consuming, but totally worth it.

Ingredients: 

• Mangos green or ripe (green will be more acid, and ripe will be more sweet)
• Sugar, as needed
• Water
• Juice of 2 or 3 Lemons or limes (optional if mangos are green)
• Large pot with lid
• Long wooden spoon for stirring
• Sterilized glass canning jars for jam, or medium sized plastic containers for the thick jalea.

Procedure:

1. Wash the mangos and cut an X on them.
2. Place mangos in the large pot.
3. Cover them with water and heat water until it boils. Lower heat and cover. Keep at a constant boil. Cook until tender. About 40 minutes to 1 hr, depending on how many mangos you have. I had about 10 -12 large mangos.
4. Once the mangos are soft, turn off the heat and let it cool. Drain.
5. Later that day or the next day, in a large bowl, with a big metal spoon, peel and scrape the mango pulp.
6. Discard seeds and peel.
7. Grab a large colander with medium weave and pass the pulp catching all the fibers. This is very important, mango fibers are like hair, very unpleasant, like eating a wig. 
8. In a large pot, add sugar (equal weight of the mango pulp, a bit less if mangos are really ripe), mango pulp 
9. Add lime juice.  
10. Cook on medium heat until it begins to bubble, be careful it sputters, stir often with large wooden spoon. 
11. When the water content has reduced significantly and the jam has thickened, remove from heat. 
12. Line up your clean sterilized glass containers if making jam, or line your larger plastic squares, if making "Jalea". 
13. Pour hot mixture into containers. 
14. Close the lids and let them cool.

These will last several weeks at room temperature, but if in doubt, once cool, keep them in the fridge, or follow instructions for canning food from a reliable source. Mine are consumed almost immediately.

Very important to remove the fibers

What a treat, you can use it as regular jam, or as a base for chutneys.  You can add hot peppers and spices and turn it into a spicy jam to go with poultry or pork.  Use it as a topping for ice cream, or cheese cake....with jalea you can slice it and spread it on toast or serve it with cheese to guests. Enjoy.

My jars with hot jam, turned upside down to sterilize air trapped in the jar.
An old trick I learned from French cooks.

Chocolate bark with leftover turrón

Chocolate bark with leftover Spanish holiday Turrón

Turrón is a Spanish holiday treat made with lots of almonds, sugar, eggs, honey and oh, so good.   Every house has a favorite one, there is soft yellow turrón of Jijona, made with egg yolks, and there is hard white turrón of Alicante made with egg whites. There is chocolate flavored turrón, coconut flavored turrón, and even sugar free turrón. But if you happen to have leftover turrón de Alicante, you already know how good it is. 

Know lets make chocolate leftover turrón bark. Super easy and I promise you will have no more left overs! 

There are many brands, this is a popular one.

Melted white chocolate

I really did not record the quantities because I use left overs, hence a guesstimate, I promise, it is very easy. 

Ingredients:

2 - 6 oz/170 grams baking white chocolate melted
1 - 8 oz/226 grams semi-sweet baking chocolate, melted or dark chocolate of your choice

1 Turrón de Alicante chopped in pieces

1/4 to 1/2 a cup of chopped dried fruits such as cranberries, dates, or raisins

Chopped pistachios or other nut of your choice

Silicone pad 

Melted dark chocolate (top) and chopped dried nuts,
fruit and turrón pieces

Procedure:

Place the silicone pad on a baking sheet

Sprinkle half the chopped ingredients on the silicone pad spread well

Melt the chocolates in microwave or stovetop in separate pots 

Slowly pour the white chocolate evenly to cover the chopped dry ingredients

Next, pour the dark chocolate making marble/zebra design over the white chocolate

Sprinkle with the rest of the chopped ingredients, let it cool in the fridge until hard

Break into large pieces and put them on a tin or eat them right away.

It is sooooo good.

Here I used cashews, but my favorite bark was the one time I used pistachios

The hard part is not eating it all by myself!

Salmorejo (Creamy Tomato Soup)

Tomato, olive oil, sherry vinegar, day old bread, garlic and apple. 

Summer in Andalucia is like living inside a vocano, yeap, the roads melt, the streets are deserted, the dogs dig holes in the dirt to find some relief in the damp ground, the people leave their homes to camp at the beach, and the hotels, lower their prices. Lower the prices?? It is summer, it is peak season for most of Europe? As I was once told by a hotel concierge: " Ma'am, have you ever been in Sevilla during the summer?  Not even us (Sevillanos) want to live here, and he was right, high 80's to low 100's° F with sunrise around 7 am and sunset almost at 10 pm!  Yes, you want to be near water or living in a cave.

A great way to beat the heat is to eat cold food.  Lots of salads, some of them liquid, like Gazpacho and cold soups, such as ajo blanco and salmorejo.  Everyone has their own version of Gazpacho which is not fattening like salmorejo, which is made with bread and olive oil.  But I absolutely loathe cucumber, in Gazpacho, so for me, Salmorejo is the King of cold soups. 

Peel the tomatoes if you like.

Put all the ingredients in the blender

Cold creamy tomato soup. Delicious! 

just garnish with egg and ham

SALMOREJO:

Ingredients:

6 Ripe plum tomatoes
1 garlic clove peeled
1/8 day old baguette (crusty bread) or one or two hands full of any old bread
1/4 granny smith apple, peeled
1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO)
Salt/pepper to taste
1/2 to 1 teaspoon of Sherry vinegar (if not, then apple vinegar)

For the Garnish:
2 Hardboiled eggs chopped in little pieces
1 tablespoon of Spanish ham, prosciutto or bacon bits (last resort)
a splash of EVOO
If vegetarian, you may want to replace the ham for the little chopped sun dried tomatoes (optional)

Preparation:
Place the eggs in a small sauce pan, cover them with cold water.  Place the pan on the stove and heat until it begins to boil. Turn it off and cover.  Let the eggs sit in the hot water for 13 min. Remove and run through cold water and peel the eggs. Set them aside.

For the soup:
Peel the tomatoes, it make the soup really smooth, but you don't have to. I bought this great tomato peeler, so I use it every chance I get.  It is easier than blanching the tomatoes in hot water to peel them. Quarter the tomatoes, add them to the blender.  Add all the other ingredients except the garnish to the blender as well. Blend until creamy, add the salt and pepper to taste, blend again and correct the taste if you have to, and maybe the acidity with the vinegar. Serve the soup in two bowls and garnish with chopped hard boiled egg and ham bits.
Serves two. Enjoy.

Notes:
Most salmorejo recipes don't include the apple, this is a nice touch because it balances out the acidity in the soup.
If the bread is too old and hard, soak it in water and then squeeze the excess out and use it in the recipe.
Depending on the tomato's water content you may have to add a little water to the soup to get the right consistency or even more oil.
Sherry vinegar is the vinegar typical of the area, it is more acid than regular vinegar, so if using apple vinegar you may have to use a bit more.

Salmorejo with egg garnish and olive oil

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Feria Word of the Day: ARRANQUE (Roteño)

Arranque on Rota's Feria with a glass of dry Sherry

Arranque Roteño: it is a dish half way between gazpacho and salmorejo cordobez, made out of Tomato and bread, and you eat it as a dip of chunky soup. Delicious either way. 

4-5 red medium-size tomatoes

3-4 garlic cloves

3-5 Italian green peppers

Extra Virgin Spanish Olive oil

Salt

1 Stale baguette bread, cut in to little squares, you may not use all, depends on the juiciness of the tomato.

Preparation:
The old fashion and traditional way to make it is in a "Lebrillo", a unglazed ceramic bowl, rough to the touch, which helps catch the food for pounding it in to a pulp. It acts like a huge mortar, and it is also a very cute serving plate.  You just have to add one ingredient at the time and mash it with a large pestle, adjust the seasoning with salt and oil and you are done.

If you don't live in Andalusia, you probably don't have a Lebrillo, so here is the modern version of it.  Although I may have to say it is never de same.  Texture is important, it has to be chunky,  not smooth or you will end up with another dish similar to Salmorejo Cordobés (cold tomato soup).

Blend green peppers and garlic cloves in a food processor, add the tomatoes and blend carefully. Next add breadcrumbs, olive oil and salt to taste. Don't over process, it must stay chunky. Chill in fridge about 30 minutes to allow flavors to develop.

Serve it in a smaller bowl with a slice of crunchy bread, that can be used as a spoon or a spoon.   You can also serve it with crudités  for a festive look and a glass of dry cold sherry wine.

It is a traditional food only from the Village of Rota.  It is interesting, you can drive 20 minutes to Jerez or El Puerto de Santa Maria, and there is no Arranque.  In Rota, it is eaten almost year round, except when tomatoes are not in season. It has been my comfort food during feria, and it is traditional Sunday of Feria, the last day of feria, when most casetas/tents offer their guests a free bowl of Arranque. I'm usually making the line for arranque more than once until there is no more.  It is soooo good.

Mmmm arranque, served in a lebrillo

Oh no, I ate it all!

Arranque Roteño is also the name of a summer Flamenco festival that the town of Rota hosts.  The Peña Flamenco El Viejo Agujeta invites prominent flamenco singers to delight the village, and yes, you guessed it, at the  festival you are greeted at the door with authentic Arranque roteño in a small ceramic bowl for you to keep as a souveneer. 

Great flamenco Artists at the festival

Arranque at the Arranque Roteño festival

Feria Word of the Day: REBUJITO

Rebujito for feria is the best thirst quencher.

REBUJITO: from the verb Rebujar.

• to mix
• Popular drink during Feria in Andalusia. 

Ingredients:
Fino or manzanilla wine,
Lemon soda and
lots of ice

It also tastes really good with a little mint (optional)

Enjoy

"Erizá" The Festival of Sea Urchins in Cadiz

Every January, as soon as the New Year, and 3 Kings celebration is over, the city of Cadiz invites everyone to try a very interesting dish, straight from the waters of Cadiz, raw sea urchin! ... and it is delicious. According to the folks around here, it tastes like "You are biting into a wave" told me someone at the Sea Urchin Festival.  Ok, maybe the first time is not so delicious, but it is not terrible either.  

I don't think they left any urchins in the ocean!

Every year the city (Barrio de la Viña) provides tons of free sea urchins (close to 800 pounds) and a glass of sherry wine to wash it down, but you have to stand in long lines if you want to sample it for free.  Or you can go to any corner of the historical downtown, and vendors will have mountains of sea urchins for sale by the dozen, no waiting and hardly any lines.

There are also other products from the sea for sale, if you don't eat urchins.

I always wondered how to cut this spiny creature.

The colors are amazing.

Look at the size of this oyster!

On another part of town (Plaza San Antonio), folks are also having an Oyster festival, actually is "Ostión" which is larger than an oyster and stronger in flavor.  Same deal applies to the oysters, long lines, one per person, and a glass of sherry.  Close to 1200 pounds of large oysters, almost 600 pounds of baked peppers,  2.500 liters of Cruzcampo beer, and 1.000 liters of manzanilla Soleá are distributed.   And if you are really hungry, just like with the sea urchins, better walk around the corner and buy a dozen oysters or two, plus a drink.  

Besides the huge amounts of raw seafood, there is also music, bands playing in the plaza, and the very typical carnival groups trying out their new songs and satire about politicians, or some current event. Loads of fun and great photo opportunities.

Don't forget:
Both Festivals are on January 11, 2015.  
time: 13:00 until dusk
Food and music around town.  See you at the festival, and remember to dress warm.

Three Kings cake, for the nice, and a Lump of coal for the naughty

Delicious ring filled with cream from a Sevilla bakery

For the naughty ones, a lump of coal, but not so bad, it is sweet coal.
Find it in the stores labeled: Carbon de Reyes.

The 3 Wise Men, or "Los Tres Reyes Magos" parade is celebrated on the 5th of January with floats, music and candy.  The eve of the 3 Kings arrival, is celebrated by all, outdoors, watching the floats with important town personalities representing the Three Wise Men.  This marks the end of Christmas.  On the morning of the 6th, children open the gifts brought by the Wise Men, and later that evening at coffee time, people feast on this delicious bread/brioche filled with cream and with a tiny surprise inside.   It is traditional to hide a lima bean inside the bread, and whoever gets it in their slice, has to pay the brioche.  This tradition is ancient, scholars say it may date back to the 14th century.  

The "Roscón de Reyes" (Spain), was also brought to Latin America, and it is celebrated with coffee, or hot chocolate on the 6th.  In Latin America it is called "Rosca de Reyes" instead.  Other costumes also practiced on both sides of the ocean, are to place a small figure of baby Jesus, or the Virgin, or even a coin inside in the bread before baking.  In my home, whoever got the price, had to host the party next January 6th.

By the way, after the 6th is when most people jump into the diet bandwagon.
Not before, who would miss this?

A very common site this days, all the bakery windows have their displays full of these sweet breads covered with sugar and candied fruit.  Even the grocery stores carry "Roscón de Reyes" for our convenience.  So that means, no one (at least the people that I know) make this bread.  Are you crazy? This is the hype of last minute Christmas shopping around here.  People are busy, so just buy it and relax.   Now, if you don't happen to be in this little corner of heaven, I am posting a link to a mexican recipe in English, or just search in the internet for another recipe.  Either way hope it turns out great.  Happy "Dia de Reyes", hope you don't get "carbón" (coal).

Mmm, delicious.

Pan de Jamón, Venezuelan X-mas bread

My non traditional bread, with cheese and cranberries.
I would call this one Holiday bread

Xmas bread or Pan de Jamón, is native to Venezuelans, and a must during the holidays.  Since there are so many of us Venezuelans, outside the country, Pan de Jamón is really made all over the world.  I certainly provide my share of advertisement around the places I have lived.  I share this bread with everyone during the holidays.  It  is so easy to make, with a few short cuts it could be your favorite party dish to bring to Thanksgiving, Xmas, or any dinner.  It is delicious and who doesn't like fresh baked bread?

The bread dough is made like traditional bread except that it has milk and eggs, so it will remind you of a cross between a brioche and normal bread.  The filling looks beautiful, with swirls of baked ham and olives, red peppers and raisins.  It is a great combination of salty, chewy and sweet flavors.  

For a quick version, use store bought croissant dough and start the preparation at step # 5 and continue the same with the rest of the recipe.

For the spanish version, pincha el enlace para versión en español.

Fresh baked bread, who doesn't like this?

Look at the beautiful filling.  If it had ham it would be the bottom layer, instead of cheese.

Ingredients for 2 medium loaves (6-8 people):

For the dough *

• 500 grams o 3 1/3 cups of al purpose flour **
• more flour for the table top and kneading
• 200 ml o 7 oz of warm milk
• 3 tsp or 25 grams of yeast 
• 6 tbsp or 75 grams of melted butter (unsalted)
• 1 large egg 
• 4 tbsp warm water 
• 1 tsp sugar
• 1 tsp salt  (5 gr.)
• 1 egg beaten with a little water and 1 tbsp sugar to paint the bread 

Filling:

• 250 grams of thinly sliced Virginia baked ham, or same amount of sliced or shreded smoked Provolone (for vegetarians).
• 150 grams green olives stuffed with red peppers
• 250 grams (1 jar) of roasted peppers drained an thinly sliced (optional)
• 50 grams raisins or cranberries, soaked in hot water to re-hydrate

You will also need:

Oil, parchment paper, Bowls, spatulas, a brush, plastic film, kitchen towels, cookie sheet or 
tray.

* Skip if using store bought croissant dough. Go to step #5.

** Flour is tricky, I have used american flour, italian flour, Spanish flour.  Some are softer, some have more gluten, so the first time trying this recipe, you may need to tweek it a little, until you find the right liquid and flour balance.

Dough has to be smooth but a little wet

I tape my paper so it won't slide when shaping the dough

Make sure your bread fits in the oven.  Don't make rectangles too large.

Tip: if you place olives in a line, when you cut your bread,
every slice of bread will have an olive.  I like peppers and olives so I add more, 3 rows! 

Preparation:

1. Pour warm water and sugar in a cup, add yeast, mix and let it foam for a few minutes. 
2. In a large bowl mix the flour, add melted butter, 1 egg, salt and the cup of warm milk.  Mix well and then add the yeast disolved in water.  Keep mixing well until it starts resebling bread dough.  You can do it by hand, but I use a mixer.
3. Continue mixing until dough becomes elastic but still a bit wet.  Remember if it is too wet you can add flour 1 tablespoon at a time untild desired consitency, if it is too dry add 1 tablespoon of water.  Now I get my hands dirty and the last kneading I do it by hand.  The dough must be soft silky and a bit wet.
4. With the help of a spatula, I lift the dough from my work table and place it on a large oiled bowl.  Cover the bowl with plastic film or a moist kitchen towel.  Let the dough rest in a warm draft free place, about 1 hour or until double in size.
5. Cover your work table with parchment paper. I tape the edges so when I work with the dough it stays in place.
6. If you haven’t soaked the rasins yet, do it now.  Place half the dough over the parchment paper and with a rolling pin strech it until you have a rectangle about 1/2 inch thick.  Make sure this size fits in the oven and cookie sheet.
7. With the egg, water, sugar mix paint the triangle edges of the dough.  Drain well the raisins and olives, and if still too wet, pat dry.  I like to squeeze the olives, they tend to keep water in the cavity.
8. Cover the dough with ham ( or cheese), leaving 3/4 inch of the edges free of filling.  Now spread raisins, and roasted peppers (optional), and line up the olives (see picture above).  From one of the long sides of the rectangle, carefully start rolling the bread.  Once done press down the sides to seal and fold under. Try to leave the bread seam on the bottom.
9. Lift the baking sheet with bread and place it on a cookie sheet and cover with plastic film or moist towel.  Let it rest for 30 minutes.
10. Repeats steps 6 - 9 for the other bread.
11. Pre-heat oven at 400 °F or 200°C for about 20 -30 minutes.  Once the loaves have rested, it is time to paint the bread with the egg wash. Now with a fork poke holes all over loaves and put them in the oven during 20 to 25 minutes or until nice and golden.  Remove from heat and let them rest before slicing.

At room temperature, cut the bread in slices and place in a plater,  look at those nice and colorful spirals. Eat immediately  Enjoy. If not consumed immediately, don't slice.  Store at room temperature in foil, bread will keep for a few days.

Variations:

Traditionally, this bread is made with ham, raisins and olives, not cheese, or cranberries.  Some people add bits of bacon for more flavor.  Every household in Venezuela, has their preferred way of making it.  Some also spread butter before covering the dough with ham, for extra moisture and flavor.  Yet some others, like to grind the filling, making a paste, and spreading it.  I don’t like this, it reminds me of deviled ham.  One thing is for sure, every house in Venezuela eats pan de jamón during the holidays.  

Roll from the long side

Poke with a fork and paint the bread with egg wash.

My oven is really small, so I have to put the bread diagonally

The house smells so good.

Oh Honey! - "Miel de Rota".

Only a few meters away from the sea, live these happy bees.

Jose Hernandez, is the bee master in Rota.  His hives are located by the beach.  Just a few bushes of rosemary and a couple of yards of sand, separate the waves from the bee colonies. When we arrived, Jose was busy working on the last batch of honey before he is done for the year.  He moves around quickly and efficiently.  He is most of the time alone and I think he likes it that way.  He is short, strong, has bushy eyebrows and cannot stay still, just like a bee.

He's been doing this for quite some time.  His second child introduced him to this hobby.  Jose junior was just 13 yrs. old when he became interested in apiculture and Jose (father) helped out. 

The colony is much smaller now that the honey has been collected

Now José senior, is the one with the business. First, he shows us, one of the bee colonies.  We can see the bees buzzing in and out of the wooden boxes. None pay attention to us, a good thing.  Some even have their legs covered in pollen.  Then, we head to a room where he stores wooden frames (supers) that fit in the hives, that later the bees use to make their honeycombs.  The one he shows us is a frame full of honey.  First thing he must do, is remove the wax seal from the honeycomb, and immediately the honey stars oozing from the hexagonal waxy cells.  I try a chunk, suck on the honey and chew the wax.  Its delicious, chewy and, wait… Do I swallow this?  I ask.  He nods, you can, but it's a laxative, he says.  Umm, no thanks. I spit it out. :-)

The was plug that covers the honey cells is removed

The frame with the newly opened honey cells go into the centrifuge where the honey is extracted and it is collected in the container below. 

José's honey is never heated, it has no additives, it is very pure and golden, excellent quality.  It has a humidity of 15 -16 %, which is really good. More honey, less water, which means more flavor.  Some other world honeys have up to 25 % water (adulterated, probably) and are of light color and hardly any flavor.  Rota bees feed mainly on rosemary, prickly pear, and eucalyptus, as well as wild flowers from Rota's country side.  His controls are rigorous, and samples are taken to Germany where it is tested for any chemicals present, and then certified for quality and purity. His grade?  An A+.

The honey filled wooden frames are place in the centrifuge to extract the honey

Then you have to flip the frames to extract the honey on the other side

The centrifuge collects the honey and then it has to be filtered several times
 to eliminates bits of wax and other debris. 

The honey is filled by expert hands.  Not one drop is waisted.

Next step, is to bottle the honey in sterilized jars and slap a label on it.  It is ready for us.  So simple so wonderful and sweet.  I didn't always like honey, especially the grocery kind.  But of course I was eating the wrong kind.  This is what honey is supposed to taste like.  Look for his honey around Rota stores, fruit stands and markets.

*** December 2014 Update. ***
Jose's honey just got another report card back form Germany.  His honey is outstanding, and so pure, the lab folks also bought honey from him!  That certainly says a lot about his product! Congratulations Jose.

Once the labels are on, they are ready for the market.  Here is my stash.
Miel de Rota.  How sweet it is.

Around the same time of my visit, this publicity stunt appeared in town, where a bus stop was decorated like a patio with plants and an intense honey perfume was sprayed, to advertise a drink. It smelled really sweet.

Out of curiosity I searched the word honey "miel" to see if I could find a sevillana that had the word honey in it.  And I found several:

Ay que te como, from "El Mani". 

Ay,que te como y te como,
que ay, que te voy a comer.

Esa carita tan bonita
parece un terrón de miel,
parece un terrón de miel,
ay, que te como y te como,
que ay,que te voy a comer…

Warning: Words may get lost in translation…

Oh, I'm going to eat you, I'm going to eat you

Oh, I'm really going to eat you,

Such a beautiful face

it looks like a chunk of honey

it looks like a chunk of honey

Oh, I'm going to eat you, I'm going to eat you

Oh, I'm really going to eat you,…

and the video:

Another example, is a sevillana from "Rafael del Estad", Anhelo

Entre las entretelas, de mi sentío

De mi sentío
Entre las entretelas
De mi sentío
Vive una mujer
Que es el sueño mío

Que es el sueño mío
Y cierro los ojos
Y la estoy besando
Y cuando los abro
La sigo buscando

...Morena tiene que ser
Con ojos negros rajaos
Talle fino de mujer
Labios acaramelaos
Y dulces como la miel…

Again a loose translation:

In between the fabric of my senses 

lives a woman, who is my dream

she is my dream

I close my eyes

and I'm kissing her

and when I open them

I look for her

She is brunette 

with black almond eyes

small waist 

with lips like candy

and as sweet as honey...